Chapter 5: The Early Middle Ages
The "paludamentum" was worn by the upper class men and the empress. It was fastened on the right shoulder and decorated with a square "tablion" in a color and fabric in a contrasting color. http://www.eonimages.com/media/1621dce0-3d6e-11e0-910d-030586c42ce5-geta-wearing-paludamentum http://www.siue.edu/COSTUMES/PLATE9AX.HTML |
During the 10th-11th century, women wore a loose, linen undergarment called a "chemise". Over top, a long tunic was worn. To decorate and as a barrier against cold weather, women dressed in open or closed mantles. "Double mantles" were made in contrasting colors and "winter mantles were lined with fur. https://quinnmburgess.wordpress.com/2011/09/ https://www.studyblue.com/notes/note/n/exam-2-pictures/deck/10996436 |
Women in the 12th century dressed in a garment called a "bliaut", a tight fitting one piece and a style of dress called a "bliaut girone", a tight fitting garment with its upper piece joined to a lower section (the skirt). https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bliaut http://www.eg.bucknell.edu/~lwittie/sca/garb/europe_class/europe_bliaut.html |
The men of the 13th century were adorned in a cote, or an undertunic, and a "surcote, an outer tunic. Their dress was usually finished off with a "magyar sleeve" that was loose under the arm and tapered into the wrist. The "garnache" was a long cloak with sleeves like a cape. The "herigaut" was along, full garment with long sleeves and a slit right below the shoulder that the arms were passed through. The "tabard" was the short, loose tunic garment that was worn by the monks (who donned simplistic garb). "Fitchets" were added to outerwear to allow the hands to pass through. http://www.ebay.ie/itm/VINTAGE-NEW-LOOK-SEWING-PATTERN-WOMEN-039-S-DRESS-MAGYAR-SLEEVES-SIZES-8-TO-16-/281268109856 https://www.studyblue.com/notes/note/n/exam-2-pictures/deck/10996436 http://www.clevelandart.org/art/1966.112 |
Chapter 6: The Late Middle Ages
The men of the 14th century also adorned themselves in the "cote-hardie", which evolved from the surcoat. Many of the garments from this time period are decorated with a form called "dagging" with allowed for the edges of made garments to be decoratively cut into scalloped or pointed edges. http://www.harriets.com/M&Rmens.htm http://romandelarose.org/help/illustration_keyword_glossary_en.html |
The "houppelande" (shown right on first picture), also worn by the men, was created with the idea of a coat being worn over the doublet. It is seen to have been fitted over the shoulder and pleated, before being tied at the waist. The "houppelande a mi-jamb" (shown left on first picture) was the shorter version of the houppelande. The type of shoe worn was the "poulaine" or the "crackowe", which was known for its long, elongated toe. http://www.oneonta.edu/faculty/angellkg/GOTHIC.HTML http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-of-art/29.158.914 |